1.  Work on your putting first.  One stroke is still one stroke whether it’s 8
inches or 320 yards.  Learn to read a green, practice your setup, develop your mind,
find your dominant eye and get on the putting green before each round.  This single
area will shave strokes off your round.

2.  Work on your short game.  If you can get the distance to the green but are just
off the green, you’ll want to be up and down in two.  If you can do  that like Tiger,
your short game will save you in more than one situation.  In sand, too long, too
short, par 3s, and on the fringe.  Get a solid chip shot  with a 3 wood, a loft
wedge, sand shots and know your nine iron and you will shave more strokes.

3.  Hit straight off the tee.  Work on your grip, stance, set-up, pre-shot routine,
take away, swing plane, hip turn and finish and remember 200 yards dead center in the
fairway beats 250 yards in sand, water, trees, deep grass, and the next fairway any
day of the week.

4.  Learn course management skills.  Plan each hole to work on your strengths.
Don’t just blast away.  The best test of this is the choice to hit a 3 wood 210
yards, or two 105 yard 8 irons.  If you are a strong short iron player and spray the
driver course management means to make that exact decision and not let your golfing
buddies talk you out of it.

5.  Learn to enjoy the game in your head.  Much of this game is played in your head
and getting a grip on your emotions and fears and the yips is one big part of the
game.  I played a round this year in which I shot an awful score but completed the
round with the same ball I started with, had 3 fabulous sand saves, 3
greens-in-regulation, drove nice and straight but three-putted 11 $%$^**&#)?/
GREENS!  I had lots of chances to throw my putter in the river, but . . . did not.

I’m getting better!
That to me is a great day.  Have more days like that.

===========================================

Reading your stuff for the 1st time, I was in sync until you said “Of course, keep your head down or pick out a dimple and try to watch it thru the swing!” A dimple?? I have passed on a tip to many friends who suffered from the moving head (actually, eyes!!)..And I promise you, this works!

After lining up your shot and addressing the ball, pick a spot on the ground/grass directly behind your ball, approximately 1/4 of an inch behind the ball.

It can be a spot of dirt, or a broken blade of grass, anything, . as long as it  remains at ground level.

Forget the ball at this point, force yourself  to stay focused on your “spot” all the way thru your backswing, downswing, contact and followthrough.

Resist the temptation to follow the contact and flight until well into the backswing, because forcing the head to remain focused forces  the body to remain in the proper position until  the arms finally must turn over into the backswing..  Hey, stance, grip, ball placement, and a half decent or better swing are all important!

BUT  I’ve seen this tip help weak golfers immediately…often on the first attempt and from then on. It also works with fairway woods and hybrids  with a little more space behind the ball (no more than 1/2 inch). I picked this up from a magazine article, tried it, and as I said, it works. I’d give credit to
the author, but it was several years ago. Give it a fair trial, this will allow you to get better!
Larry Mathes, Wewahitchka, Florida

===========================================

I have heard somewhere that new players should be seen and not heard, but maybe just
this once…. I currently have fewer than 10 rounds under my belt and have finally
managed to turn several holes per round into pars. I am golfing around 109 as of last
week – thanks in part to Free-Golf-Tip.com. What better way to pay it forward than to offer my own tip…

As a new player, your putting opportunities typically occur by chipping onto the
green from the rough and fringe, and without the control of more seasoned players, it
often means chasing the ball back-and-forth across the green.

I have tried solving this in two ways. The first is to putt from the rough, which
can be tricky business and leads to a lot of three and four-putts.

A better way for me has been to move your grip down so you are holding the club on
the shaft below the grip. This keeps the club from gathering the kind of clubhead
speed that sends the ball to the other side of the green – and even if you hit it
thin, it’s going to resemble more of a putt and still won’t go as far as it would
otherwise. For me, it has helped on the par 4 and par 5 holes to get close enough to
the pin with one chip to make a short putt for par.

Give it a try – if nothing else, it won’t work and the axiom we started with can go
back into effect.

Joel Gaines Tucson, Az

There  are very few putts
that you aim straight at the hole! Having said that, putting is mostly about speed,
not aim.  If the  putt breaks more than a couple of inches, you need to get both
right in order to make the putt (or get both *wrong*, such that  they cancel out).

Aim is more important out to about two feet.  Beyond that, you need both.  Outside of
ten feet, it’s all about  speed.  You’re not likely to make the putt no matter what
you do  and your read of the break isn’t likely to be off by more than a  foot or
two.  But boy, can you get the speed wrong by more than  that . . .In my experience,
almost all three-putts are caused by  poor speed control on the first putt (and a
resulting second putt  that’s more than two or three feet).

=====================

Putter alignment tips

The key is getting your putter’s face aligned properly.  Here are some tricks. After
you’ve lined up your putt and see  the intended line, place the ball down so that the
logo points  straight down the line — don’t point the logo at the hole  (unless it’s
a perfectly straight putt); point it at your line.  Then, simply align your putter
head so that it is perpendicular  to the logo.

Another trick is to pick out an intermediate target: a  discoloration in the green,
a repaired ball mark or a particular  blade of grass, that lies directly on your
intended line, but only  two or three feet in front of your golf ball. When you are aiming
your  putter head, forget about your line and the hole and focus on this
intermediate target.

Perhaps the easiest way to align your putter head correctly, is to  stand behind the
ball and look at your line– then carefully place  the putter head behind the ball
aiming towards your target line.  Then, making sure not to move the putter head, walk
around to the  side of the ball and take your putting posture.

=======================================

Short putting is mainly about direction.

Aiming corrrectly and  making a perfect smooth stroke.

Longer putting is about getting  the distance right.

You know this if in the past your putt has finished 6 feet short  (insert snicker
here) or 6 feet long.  But almost never will it be  6 feet wide.

Since a firm putt tend to hold its line you should aways hit the  longer putt firmly
and be prepared to putt back to the hole.

That means that the best thing you can do to get your distance  right is go to the
practice green and hit twenty putts from 2 feet,  twenty putts from 6 feet, twenty
putts from 12 feet and twenty  putts from 20 feet.  Soon you will know how to judge
distance and  select how hard to stroke the golf ball at the same time.

=======================================

The Routine.  Practice on the putting green before you hit the
course.

- review the slope, grain, and layout of the green.
- estimate the distance.
- select your aiming point.
- setup your grip, feet, head, and putter head alignment.
- decide on your stoke for the distance.
- take a parallel practice swing.
- smile confidently to yourself.
- swing smoothly.
- wait.

For years we have been taught that the golf ball is the target.  But in reality, the
ball should just be an object that we use to  play the game. That’s the theory behind
a teaching philosophy known  as “throwing the club.” This natural reaction of
throwing develops  natural rhythm as well as proper weight shift, the correct angle
of  your left arm and club shaft, a full body turn, and extension and  release.

The target becomes a point away from the ball, and the  ball becomes simply a point
at which the club passes through during  the throw. Students also experience a
“letting-go” sensation, which  results in a softer grip necessary for an accurate and
repeating  golf swing.

Once the student develops this throwing sensation, then  we work on setup, grip and
posture. It’s fascinating to see how  quickly students adapt to the concept of
“throwing the club.” They  will eventually become their own coach and correct their
own  mistakes.

Lifting Your Heel?

Lifting your left (or right heel if you are left handed) is a tip that is taught
differently by different teachers.

The rationale is that if you let your left heel lift naturally as you complete your
back swing you will allow your body to make a full turn to set up for the swing.

If you don’t lift your heel (as some suggest) you will find some strain on your arms
and trunk as you try to make a full turn to set up for the swing,  The result — you’ll sacrifice power.

Look at some of the great golfers.  Jack Nicklaus will allow his heel to rise on the
takeaway.  Same with Ben Hogan.

I saw a recent picture of the famous teacher, David Leadbetter and his heel was
firmly planted on the ground.  He did, however, have a full turn on the takeaway.

My advice is for us weekend warriors is to allow your heel to rise if you need to.
If not, if you can make a full turn without it, then keep both heels on the ground in your swing.

Take this simple tip to the range or to your next round.

Cure for Slicing tips

The slice is one of the most dreadful shots in golf. The golfer who  slices tends to
aim to the left so the ball will curve to the  right. This poor alignment is
difficult to correct, but it is the  only place to start. First, lay two clubs on the
ground, one at the  target and the other parallel left of the target. Now align the
club face at the target and your feet and shoulders parallel left.  You will feel
that you are aiming to the right, but the clubs will  serve as visual aids to help
cure the uncertainty. The ball should  be positioned forward in your stance just
inside your left heel.

Grip the golf club lightly and allow the right elbow to relax, keeping  it close to your
side. On your backswing, start the club back low  and slightly to the inside, again
keeping your right elbow relaxed  and close to your side. On your downswing, focus on
keeping your  right elbow close to your side and allow the clubhead to swing to 1
o’clock. It takes patience to cure a slice, but follow these simple steps  and you’ll be
headed in the right direction.

The more I play golf the more I realize that golf is more about the people who
play than most anything else.
A great example of this is simply to watch how people interpret the rules.
Some are rigid and know every rule.  They follow them and they fully expect you to
follow them as well.
Others think the rules of golf are more like guidelines, meant to be followed on
most, but not all days.
Me, I will play with either type of golfer . . . as long as you tell me in advance.

I have compiled a selection of the rules I think you will see most often.
If you are serious about rules, remember, I am not the USGA, so don’t quote me as
the rule book.
These rules will help you when you are in a situation and the following question
passes through your head.
“I wonder what the rule is here.”  Beginners and even golfers who have played for years need to be aware of the basics of rules even if you aren’t playing tournaments or for money.
Enjoy — and don’t argue.

=========================================

You hit your ball out of bounds.
Out of bounds is marked by white stakes.  You’ll know them.  In order to be out of
bounds you have to be fully out.  Any part is inside the stakes, you’re in.
If you aren’t sure you are out of bounds (like when you are still on the tee box)
you can hit a provisional.  If the original is out of bounds, play the provisional
where it lays, if not, pick up the provisional and play the original.
If you are out of bounds you have to play “stroke and distance”.  Darn.  You must
play the ball from the spot where you originally hit (distance) and take a one stroke
penalty (stroke).    Oh, and if your ball is laying up against the white stake but in
bounds you have to play it where it lies.

========================================

Basics of your ball is in water.
Here you are looking at yellow stakes or red stakes.  The difference?  Red is a
lateral water hazard.
If you are in water with yellow stakes, you can hit a second ball and add a penalty
stroke.  Or you can locate where the ball entered the water and drop a ball anywhere
at that point as far away from the hole as you choose.  Then add a stroke.
For lateral water hazard make a note where the ball crossed the red stakes, and you
can drop the ball two club lengths on either side of the water.  No closer to the
hole.  Add a penalty stroke.
You can play the shot from within the hazard without a penalty but beware, this is
not for the faint of heart.  You run the risk of not getting the ball out.

=========================================

Some General Rules Beginners Might Wonder About.
If your ball is on a cart path,(hopefully you got a few extra yards from it) you can
drop it onto grass on either side of the path, as long as the path doesn’t interfere
with your feet or ball.  But you can only drop within ONE club length of the path. No
penalty stroke and no closer to the hole.
If your ball is lost!  Again, darnit.  First you have only five minutes to search.
The clock starts when YOU start to search.  You’ll feel pressure from your partners
and the Marshall if you elect to use this rule these days.  If you can’t find it, you
have a stroke and distance penalty awaiting you.  If you think the ball might be
lost, you can hit a provisional ball.  You must hit your first ball if found.  This
is a terrible feeling when you hit a boomer provisional and your first ball is found
beside a tree trunk.
If your ball falls off the tee, even if you touch it, you can replace it without a
penalty.
If your ball rolls into a pile of leaves that are piled for removal, you can get
relief and move the ball.  If the ball rolls under a leaf from a tree, you can move
the leaf BUT NOT THE BALL.

=========================================

Which leads to what happens when your ball is interfered with by nature.
What you do is based on where you are.
If you are on the green you can move any loose impediment any way you want. You can
move the ball and replace in order to do so with out a penalty.
In a sand bunker or water hazard you cannot move any loose impediment.
On the fairway or rough sand and dirt can’t be moved, but tree parts can be moved as
long as your ball doesn’t move.  Cost you a stroke if it does.

There’s lots more but these are the basics.

Custom fitting has become an increasing part of the equipment industry, with all
major manufacturers offering some kind of custom fitting program.  In addition, there
is a network of about 1,500 qualified custom clubmakers and clubfitters working out
of their small independent shops across the U.S. and Canada , and around the world.
More and more golfers are finding that tweaking their specs and experimenting with
different shafts can have a profound effect on their shotmaking.

But most of them totally ignore their wedges.

As a group, your wedges represent your “last best hope” of saving par and making
birdies, but how much attention have you really given them?  Almost every wedge sold
is an off-the-rack selection and over-the-counter transaction.  And you typically get
a “one-size-fits-all” shaft, probably chosen more for cost than performance.  A
little extra attention to your scoring clubs can yield big results in shaved strokes.

The reality is that no other club in the bag can benefit more from the extra
attention of custom fitting and tweaking the shaft than can your wedges.  A wedge
that is properly fitted in both lie/length specs and shaft flex can make a dramatic
improvement in any golfer’s short game.

The Importance of Shaft Choice in Your Wedges

No other clubs you carry are asked to perform at such a wide variety of swing speeds
as your wedges.  In every round, you hit shots at with all kinds of clubhead speeds,
ranging from full swings to not much more than putter speed.   This puts a unique set
of demands on the shafts.

There are two elements of shaft choice in wedges – flex and weight.  Regarding shaft
flex, your wedges should be closely matched to your irons.  If you play Regular flex
shafts in your irons, you should play a Regular Flex in your wedges.  As for weight,
if your irons have graphite shafts, you should strongly consider graphite in your
wedges as well.

But the wedge shafts are a different animal than that in all your other wedges.
Good wedge play requires a shaft that is soft enough to provide a little flexing
action at the slowest swing speeds – for head feel – but strong enough in the tip to
prevent ballooning trajectories when you make a full swing.   It may take a little
experimentation, and there are shafts on the aftermarket that are designed
specifically for wedges.  It’s worth some tinkering if you want your short game to
shine.

Custom Fitting of Your Wedges

Regardless of your shaft choice, every golfer can benefit from some custom tweaking
to his or her wedges.

First of all, take a tip from tour professionals . . . almost all of them have their
wedges set 1-2 degrees flatter than their irons.  That’s because nearly all wedge
shots are played with less than full swings, and the flatter lie promotes the “low
hands” path through impact that all good short game practitioners exhibit.  Since you
are generally flexed a little more at the knees when you play wedge shots, and taking
a shorter, slower swing, the flatter lie insures the sole of the wedge makes level
contact with the turf, so that the bounce is true.

The other consideration is length.  Even if you play your irons over standard, you
should be cautious about doing the same with your wedges.  Overlength wedges are
unwieldy.   At EIDOLON, we recommend that any golfer playing over-length irons should
keep their wedges to no more than half the over-length amount.  In other words, if
your irons are ½” over standard, play your wedges no more than ¼” over.  You’ll be
pleased with the results.

If you really want to improve your short game, make these changes to your wedges.  I
feel certain you’ll be impressed.

Terry Koehler

As I played a round of golf this weekend I was struck by how inconsistent play can affect your enjoyment of the game.

You play a hole well and score a nice par then follow with a six on a par 3 — and wham, there goes your smile.

Here are some small corrections you can make during a round to ‘get it back’

Check Your Grip

During a round it is easy to stop thinking about having the same grip each shot.  Other things on your mind.

I understand.

But one mid-course correction you can do is to double check your grip hasn’t become ‘strong’ or ‘weak’ as the round goes on.

You may not know but a weak grip can promote a open clubface and that can promote a slice.

A weak grip is when your trailing hand (right hand for us right handers) is turned counter clock wise (over the club).

The neutral grip can help you get it back.  You will know a neutral grip if the V made by your thumb and finger point to the inside of your right shoulder.

Take a look when you are hitting well.  What grip are you using?

Remember for when you aren’t hitting so well.

=========================================

Check Your Alignment.

Funny thing.  In golf, the ball is not moving when you hit it.  I can’t think of any other sport where that is the case.

How hard can it be then, to aim square to the target?

First, you must have a target.  I talked about this earlier but dont’ forget to see the exact spot the ball needs to land.

Then stand directly behind the ball and face the target.  Now you know that angle.

When you set your feet they should be square to the target.  So should your shoulders and hips.  Avoid the temptation to adjust your stance to compensate for your slice or adjust your stance to compensate for your swing.

In order to improve, you need to be able to hit the ball where you intend to more often than not.

If you are square a basic swing will give you a basic (straight) shot.  And that, you can repeat.

=========================================

Introduce Yourself to the Three-Quarter Swing

If you really are hitting wildly this adjustment might come in handy.

Prepare yourself to give up some distance.  It’s ok to be on the fairway and 20 yards back rather than in the creek and 20 yards further.

This adjustment will allow you to swing smooth and follow through.

Your goal is to limit the off-center hits and straighten them out.  Widen your stance a wee bit.  Take the club away and don’t think about breaking your wrists.  They will hinge at the top naturally.

Then take a smooth swing and make sure you follow through properly.  Your club will be more likely to start the swing path on the proper plane and this is what will minimize mis-hits.

How to play better golf comes in many shapes and forms but these tips will get you going again when it seems like the wheels are falling off.

You are close to the green.  Five yards from the fringe, even.  Grab your wedges and chip
away.

Not so fast skippy.

Before you hit your shot you need to look at three things before you choose your
club.

1:  What is between you and the green?

2:  What is between you and the pin?

3:  How far is it to your target landing area?
Let’s look at each of these factors.

If you have played a bit of golf on a few different courses, you now know that the
area around the green is not always a nice flat safe place to for hitting wedges from.

In fact, many greens are ‘protected’ so you are forced to hit a good shot from the
right approach in order to tame it.

Alas, many of us don’t have the control to choose exactly how we get close to the
green.  We are just happy we are close.

You will also find that greens have sand, trees, walls, hills, slopes, and water
surrounding them.  (makes you want to have a

little chat with the golf course designer, eh?)

So make a mental note of what terrain is between you and the green.  Hold that
thought.

Now look at the green.  They ain’t all round.  They ain’t all flat.  They move the
pin all over the place.

Where is the pin relative to you.  Is it right close to your edge or is it waaaaay
at the other end?  Is there a slope up or

down?  Or two tiers?

Is there even a straight line between you and the green or is the pin around a
corner?

Here is where you have to make your first decision.  Lob or roll?

As an example.  You are 5 feet from the fringe, the pin is 30 feet away at the other
end of a flat green.  You can safely hit

a long iron over the 5 feet and let the ball roll the distance to the pin.  Getting
the distance right is your goal here.

Or.  You are 5 feet away from the fringe and the pin is 4 feet away from that.  A
long iron won’t work here since you’ll roll

well past the pin.  You need to hit the ball up in the air and plan for no roll.
This is the time you need to be comfortable

with a 60 degree lob wedge.

Every approach shot you make from around the green think about these factors.

What if you are 5 feet away from the fringe and the pin is 10 feet away on a green
that slopes away from you.  Getting the

ball rolling on that surface will sent it well past the hole so a long iron chip
won’t be a good choice.

Once you have this decision made, the next step is to pick your target landing zone.
Look at it.  Make a mental note of it.

And plan to hit your shot into it.  If it is 3 feet or 30 yards away.  You must see
the spot.  Imagine you are putting from

that spot.  What will the ball do?  Break left or right?  Pick up speed?  Stop cold.

Now you are set for hitting your shot with any of your wedges!

You’ll have better luck if you think these thoughts before you even hit the shot.

You want to master your wedge, right? Here’s why…

Your drive was beautiful.

Your 5 iron rolled up to the green, leaving you 10 feet away from the fringe.

You can see a nice chip leaving you within a few feet or the cup so you can make a
simple putt and make par.

But something happens when you step up to that chip shot.  You take the club back
and then chunk the ball 4 feet.  You use

language unsuitable for minors and fair ladies.

What happened?  How did you go from a nice simple par to being in the same spot,
with one extra mark on your score card?  At

the end of the day how many strokes came from missing that same shot?

Personally I think that your short game and your putting game offers the best and
fastest way to improvement.

Some examples.

- on a par three you miss the green by 5 yards.  – on a par five you reach the green
in three but are 5 yards short. – on a par four you overhit the green by 5 yards. -
you chip the ball and it flies over the green – 3 feet off the ground.

In each situation you need a simple chip shot to get you close to the pin.

=========================================

Scooping is Not Allowed.

The reason you can buy a 56, 58, or 60 degree wedge is that they are designed to get
the ball in the air.

You don’t need to lift the ball or help it out.

Your goal is to swing the club through the ball and let the club do the work.

1:  Basic Set Up

Set up with a normal stance with the ball in the center of your stance.  You may see
professionals adjusting their stance to

be more open but for most beginners the best thing you can do is hit the same shot
again and again.  That means keep it

simple to start.

2:  Grip and Swing

If you are at all nervous about this shot, you may find you are gripping the club
firmly.  You may also be worried that the

club head will hit the ground thus making that dreaded sound that precedes the ball
hopping 4 feet in front of you.

So grip your club lightly.  Then make sure when you take the club back that you are
not using your wrists.  They should be

firm throughout the swing.  The club should move like a pendulum – back and forward.
Smooth is the operative word here.

You’ll need to keep things steady so that you can allow the club to pass under the
ball and allow it to loft the ball in the air with a smooth hit.

3:  Follow Through

One thing you will learn is that if you don’t think of the follow through the ball
is going to be more unpredictable.

On a short chip a follow through is not going to look like you see on the cover of a
golf magazine after a long drive.  It should finish with the club face pointing to
the sky–about waist high.

A smooth swing and follow through will have you moving through the ball and
finishing with the clubface waist high.

These basic building blocks will have you confident close to the green that you can
hit a good chip shot.

***For better pitches, shorten your back swing and accelerate through to a full finish.

Recently I played a few rounds with some new players I had met while travelling.  I
don’t normally tell people I authored a book called “Golf Like A Pro:  Golf Tips for
Weekend Warriors” because during the match there are so many interesting things to
see and do.

These three rounds were different because I found a common theme and it jumped out
at me like a snake in the grass.
This has inspired my thoughts on how your confidence can effect your game and
certainly your score.
I encountered three different golfers who were undermining their own games and
probably didn’t even know it.
You may recognize them in your playing partners.
Here is what they said — out loud.

“I can’t putt, probably won’t make this” — This one was from 3 feet out.

“I hate sand shots”

“I can’t hit over water.  Got a bag full of old balls so when I get to water holes,
I pull ‘em out”

Oh, and I should mention they said these things repeatedly.
I used to be the “I hate sand shots” guy till I learned how to hit from sand and NOW
when I am in sand, I still think up and down in two.  Why?  Because, your brain and
your body respond positively to the messages you send it.
You control those thoughts when you see you see your ball ‘at the beach’.

So what is the thing you have low confidence in when you approach it?
Is it any of these?
- hitting over water

- hitting a 3 wood on the fairway

- hitting into wind

- 2 foot putts

- dog leg left (when you slice)

- green-side or fairway bunkers

- “insert fear of your choice here”

- teeing off on the first tee and an audience

- 18th hole of match play and being up/down by one

What thoughts go though your head and what do you say out loud?
Since this is a GAME its time to play a GAME with your mind. This is how you will really improve your golf game…or not.

You see wind, you smile.  You imagine you love to hit into wind AND you say out
loud, “I love to hit these shots”  You picture the one time you did it right.
Then you go into your pre-shot routine (you do have one right?) and step up to the
ball and do not hesitate.
If, by some outside chance an old thought patter creeps back into your mind, step
away from the ball and start again.
You will truly smile when this works for you.
I hope you master ALL of the thoughts that decrease your confidence or hold you
back.

************

The Power of Positive Thinking is how you will improve

Always think positively. Be confident you are going to make That shot! When focused
to hit over water, try to avoid thinking about the obstacle. Instead, concentrate on
your target and on a smooth, effective swing.     To learn the proper putting stroke,
first practice with bigger, beginner-friendly targets. Then say one while swinging
back and two on the Way through. If your one is too loud, your pace won’t be even.
Try to make even, one-two sounds.

I’ve found that old saying:  “The only thing we have to fear, is fear itself” really comes into play for golfers when attempting a sand shot.  I personally would rather have a sand shot any day than a hard pan lie or a deep rough near the green.

As with other areas of the game, you want to look at being in the beach as a good thing! Most pros think this way. Why? Because you have much more control over spin and the largest margin of error of all the shots in your bag. Sand is very forgiving.

This really is one of the easier shots in golf… it really is!  It is the one the shot in golf that has the most room for error with regard to where the club strikes the ground.  This knowledge, going into the shot, will give you great comfort when you think it.  Haven’t you seen the pros in a tournament talking to the ball and telling it to “get in the trap” when they know it’s going to miss the green?

Sand Shot tips

Getting out of the sand can be quite simple, if you follow these few steps. First,
use a sand or lob wedge, because they both have plenty of loft to quickly get the
ball in the air. And they also have some bounce, which lets the club slide through
the sand rather than digging into it. Second, ground yourself into the sand by
wiggling your feet until you won’t slip during the swing.

This also gives you needed
information about the hardness or softness of the sand and how far behind the ball
you’ll need to hit. Remember, you are not allowed to touch the sand with either the
club or your hand before starting your swing. With soft sand, try to aim about two
inches behind the ball. When the sand is firmer, aim about an inch behind the ball.

Finally, your left arm on the backswing should be parallel to the ground, then swing
through the sand to a balanced finish. Follow these simple steps and practice them.
And you won’t fear the sand any longer.

Golf Ball Against the Bunker Face.

You know this shot.  If you have played enough times, you have walked to a bunker
only to find the ball is up against a wall of sand at the edge of the green.  You
can’t use the great sand technique you have been learned.
Really this shot is not too difficult. It’s not too difficult because no matter how
hard to hit the ball its going straight up in the air!
Basically, plant your back foot, focus on the sand behind the ball, and smash your
club into the sand.  The golf ball should pop up in the air and roll onto the green.